In the course of my collecting I've often wondered if I'm doing the best thing for the long term good of the labels. Just recently I was fortunate to establish contact with Mr. Douglas Stone, a paper conservator in Milwaukee, WI and the editor of the Friends of Dard Hunter Paper Museum Newsletter FDHPM). I asked the first questions which came to mind and got these answers.
1.. The black paper inserts in many sheet protectors is called high acid paper. Is this correct and should it be replaced? What will happen if not replaced?
Answer: Black paper inserts are acidic, plus the black often bleeds very easily if wet. If not replaced, black can stain the area, the acidity can turn paper yellow and the area becomes gradually more brittle. (Editors note: Acid free replacement pages for sheet protectors are available from Light Impressions 1-800-828-6216. The product code is 2271. They come in packages of 50 and cost about 15 cents per sheet)
2. What materials should we avoid when displaying labels?
Answer: Acidic materials should be avoided. 100% rag, non-acidic paper materials are best. Avoid materials with alum rosin sizing (glue placed on surface of paper to give strength). Also, beware of intense ultraviolet light (sunlight, uv lights, fluorescent lights).
3. Labels found in scrapbook collections will sometimes pop off the paper without soakiing. These labels can have a brownish glue stain and traces of dried glue residue still on the label. Sometimes the labels are stiff or brittle. If this residue is left on the label will the discoloration or degradation process continue?
Answer: Brownish glue can either be: hide Skin (hot) glue or rubber cement. Ride Skin is water soluble; rubber cement migrates and must be removed with an organic solvent Yes, degradation and discoloration will continue if left untreated.
4. Just what is deacidifying and are there circumstances when label collectors should consider de-acidifying labels?
Answer: Deacidification involves the neutralization of materials that are acidic. Its based on ph, which is a system of measuring the amount of positive and negative ions in a solution. ph measures the activity, which in turn gives a reading on a meter which allows an accounting of the condition of the paper or solution. Deacidification is different from Alkaline Reserve, which measures the amount of buffer (deacidification agent) left in the paper. Deacidification needs to be done by a conservator, as papers have different coating, sizing agents, paper fibers and inns.
5. Do you see any problem using Post-it Correction tape for hinging labels in notebooks?
Answer: Avoid post-it's if possible. Not as bad as scotch tape, but still a pressure-sensitive resin. They may not be acidic but acidic is not the problem. It's the resin which migrates in pressure sensitive tapes, not the acidity.
6. What services could a paper conservator offer a beer label collector?
Answer: Services include free advice, free inspection and quotation for work, ideas of how to prevent future problems, testing services to identify materials and problems. Remember, each situation is a unique problem. Even if a label looks the same as another, each paper can react quite differenily from another one.
7. What about damage or corrosion of foil paper labels? Can we prevent or minimize this?
Answer:For these labels a foil coating layer is laminated (glued) to a paper backing. The foil is aluminum and does not corrode. However, it can be bent or creased and heat or water can soften the bond so that the foil can be separated. The ink on the foil can be scraped or scuffed fairly easily. These labels are vulnerable to extraneous elements such as water, mold, glue, bugs eating the glue, and so on. So your thrust should be to keep these labels in as good an environment as you can. Avoid damp basements, hot attics,excessive humidity, excessive light and so on. Generally speaking once a foil label is damaged there isn't much you can do to restore it.
8.Should foil labels be separated from each other in storage?
Answer:Yes its certainly a good idea. It is best to separate them with a good grade of paper (not newspaper). Don't use wax paper or any type of coated paper.
9.Hinges:What kind of hinges should be used?
Answer:
Tissue Hinges: The first choice of a paper conservator would be an acid free Japanese tissue or mulberry paper (often called rice paper) applied with a wheat or rice starch paste. Aiko's in Chicago is a good supplier.
Stamp Hinges: Stamp hinges are a close second and are much simpler. Stamp hinges are basically glassine paper with a starch adhesive. The starch adhesive (as well as the starch pastes used with 'rice' paper) will leave a faint yellow discoloration in time and become slightly acidic. They last about 20-30 years.
Pressure Sensitive Tapes: I do not recommend any pressure sensitive tape despite the claims that they will not leave a residue. Of these, Archival (pressure sensitive) Tape, which is easily removed with water is the lesser of the evils the other being the gooey types which are more likely to result in resin transfer from the adhesive.
Encapsulation: If you warit to avoid any discoloration on the back of the label you should consider encapsulation in Mylar or another acid free material. This is the ultimate way to store labels; it is obviously somewhat more expensive than simple hinging. Total encapsulation,that is completely sealed, isn't a good idea because you will have a mini environment where mildly acidic paper can, so to speak, cause a gas chamber. For total encapsulation you should first de-acidify and buffer the label. However, this isn'tnnecessary if there are sufficient openings for breathing. You can build your own pockets by attaching archival Mylar to a backing surface (archival quality paper or Mylar) with a double stick tape, such as 3M #415. Editors note: The stamp collecting stock book pages, describedby Leigh Clay, represent a ready made alternative.)
10.Paper Life: How long will my labels last? I've heard that most labels today are produced on acidic paper that will not last much more than 25-30 years. Is this true?
Answer:Generally No! Paper manufacturing can produce various grades of paper. Newspapers, for example, use cheap paper which is higher in acidity and isn't designed for long life. The 25-30 year expected life might fit for newspapers. You may be referring to the backing paper used on foil labels which is similar to newspaper quality. However, foil labels didn't become popular until the 1950's so we will have to watch and see how this foil and paper combination lasts. Most paper labels use a higher quality paper and should last much longer. Editors note: I have paper labels over 120 years old and foil-paper labels over 40 years old that are still in like new condition. Of course, I also have examples of what can happen with improper storage and handling tool)
If you have a valuable label that appars to have a problem consult a paper conservator. If no problem is apparent, just use good common sense in storing and handling. Avoid darnp basements, hot attics, excessive humidity or light, and high acid materials. Paper labels can last a long long time and provide a great deal of enjoyment with proper care.
Sheet Protectors: This refers to three hole punched 8 1/2 by 11 inch sheet protectors usually found with black leeper inside the protector. This seems to be the most popular method of displaying label collections and duplicates. Usually labels are anchored to the backing paper with a stamp hinge. Each sheet protector holds about 4 labels per side or 8 labels on both sides. Estimated materials cost: 4-6 cents per label.
Pro's: This method provides a protective layer over the labels and by flipping through a three ring notebook its easyto view a large number of labels quickly.
Con's: Rearanging the order of presentation can be a pain. The black paper inside most sheet protectors is acidic and should be replaced.
Photo Album Pages: This refers to three ring notebook pages which consist of a cardboard hacking with a plastic overlay over a tacky or adhesive surface on the backing. Estimated materials cost 4-5 cents per label.
Pro's: Ease of viewing a large number of labels quickly. Protective layer over labels.
Con's: Important! Each label must have a paper layer cut out and placed between the adhesive backing and the label. Otherwise in a fairly short time the labels will stick to the backing and can be difficult or impossible to remove without damage to the label. Notebooks containing these album pages tend to be quite heavy. Here again rearranging is time consuming.
Notebook Paper: This refers to use of plain (unlined) white bond, 9 1/2 by 6 inch, three ring notebook paper. The edge is three hole punched and mylar reinforced. Each page holds one or two labels. Estimated cost: 5-10 cents per label for 1-2 labels per page. (This is the method I use.) The 8 1/2 by 5 in paper size is somewhat more common but won't hold many large size labels.
Pro's: Each label can be featured on a page. Looks great with neck label added. Rearanghig is simple. Ideal for displaying smaller collections where you specialize in one brewery, city or state.
Con's: It takes longer to view labels as you only see 1-2 labels per page. The notebook and paper, while a standard size, may have to be special ordered from your office supply store. No protective cover over label.
Stamp Collecting Stockbooks: Collector Leigh Clay of Canada was kind enough to send the following letter describing an interesting new appnoach to displaying labels.
'I approach label collecting from a postage stamp collector's viewpoint, so I use stamp collecting stockbooks.
Two brand names of stamp block stockbooks which I use are Unitrade and Ka-Be. They have a vinyl heavy-duty card-stock cover that comes in various colors. Each pagehas three crystal clear acetate storage pockets approximately 8 inches wide by 3 3/4 inches high. A label with a matching neckband can be nicely displayed in each pocket or two labels can be shown if they do not have neckbands. The pages come in black or white but the black shows off a label nicer. The pages are stiff durable cardstock. Stockbooks come with 8 or 16 two-sided pages. An 8-page book will store 48 labels with neckbands or 96 body labels. Double that for a 16 page book. They can he ordered through any postage stamp dealer or from the manufacturer Unitrade Associates.
I arrange my labels according to name of brewery, and maintain one stockbook for each brewery.
These books are excellent for storing the rarer more expensive labels and justify their high cost. They are exceptionally durable and labels cannot become bent, dirty, damaged or stuck down as occurs with glassine envelopes, sticky photo album pages, hinged labels or the plastic pop-in photo pages. The acetate pages are acid-free and cannot lead to deterioration of a label. An electro static charge between the acetate and the labels holds the labels in place without need for hinges.'
Hinging: I'd found that Post-it Correction and Cover-upTape, which is removeable, repositionable and comes in a handy dispenser, makes a handy hinge for mounting labels. Recently. I'd been using this tape for hinging labels and for repairing or reinforcing tears or thinned areas on the back of labels. I'd been hoping to be able to recommend its use, however, pressure sensitive tape such as this is discouraged by paper conservator Doug Stone because the resin tends to migrate to the paper and can cause problems. So its back to stamp hinges. Yuk!